Rubber recoil pads are NOT allowed on table guns, open or hunter class. I won't swear to it but I think you can use them on light bench guns. Table guns must have a solid butt plate, brass, steel, wood, leather etc. Light bench guns may also have a false muzzle, table guns not.
Mark

Last edited by smokinbuck (10/27/2014 3:20 PM)

Easiest way I can think of is to duplicate your recoil pad profile in wood, using the same thickness as the rubber if that fits. I did that and then put a brass plate and toe piece on the wood extension. Watch how much weight you are adding.
Mark

John,
Detailed rules and regulations have been submitted to the NMLRA board. They have agreed to include table shooting in the Spring and Fall shoot program beginning in 2015 on a probationary basis. The rules should be approved in December. In the meantime the basic idea and current specs are listed at the beginning of the table shoot section of the index under "how to". If you, or anybody, has any questions please let me know.
Mark

Kermit - Very nice job.  Will look around at the wood store.  Like the dark wood for the extension..   My stock is walnut.  A dark wood would look ok.  Ebony very expensive!    Thanks,  Homer

Thanks Kermit.  Will go to the local wood store and see what they have.   Homer

Well, the short answer (and what most folks don't want to hear) is that ALL wood dust is bad for you! Bubinga in particular isn't among the worst, but I did personally have a little trouble with it. It's usually the dust that gets you, so any power machining and all sanding are troublesome. Most amature woodworkers just need to ALWAYS wear at least a dust mask and wash your hands. The last one gets ignored more than the first, surprisingly. Probably the greatest risk from wood dust exposure is actually nasal cancer, so breathing the stuff is obviously to be avoided. You wouldn't look so handsome without your nose. Swallowing it isn't good either, which is why you wash your hands.

Woods vary greatly from not so bad or irritating all the way to YEW, which is probably the absolutely most poisonous I know of. I learned that AFTER doing a major turning project with
Pacific Yew. Wenge isn't rated as very bad, but my first exposure knocked me flat and sensitized me to it so that I couldn't even tolerate dust on my skin. Almost as bad for me are all walnuts. I worked with a lot of Western Red Cedar on boat projects, and the stuff is really bad. Oleander is nasty. So is sassafras. Assume that tropicals are not good for you, but that doesn't mean you should assume domestic woods are safe. Not. Green wood is usually worse than the same wood when it's dry, but again, that doesn't mean dry wood is safe.

Bottom line: lung protection, eye protection, wash your hands or even wear nitrile gloves, change your clothes and shower at the end of the workday. And remove splinters and slivers as soon as you get them. Some woods go septic really quickly. Infections are not fun.

My doc gave me some good advice years ago. Go home and Google the name of the wood and the word "toxicity," like "Western Red Alder toxicity" or "American Cherry toxicity." I'll also post some info over on one of the more general headings so more folks can pick it up.

Sorry if the news sounds all bad, but we know a lot more than we used to, and we also have ways to be safer and stay healthier. I wore (still do) a power face shield that filtered all the air that reached my face. Without it, my option was to give up woodworking.

Last edited by Kermit (10/31/2014 1:52 PM)

i used black plastic as a spacer under metal butt  plate it was westing house insulator board .all i need was  1/2 inch worked and looked .great .most guys just try and find a piece of same kind of wood close to same color use it ti lenghten stock .seen them do the same thing to top line if top of stock is to low

dag