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I'm nearly finished with my chunk gun, and have already shot it about 25 times. My best load so far was 120 grains of 2f Graf powder. My barrel is a 1 1/4" straight, 54" long, 48 cal. Ed Rayl. I think the twist is about 1 in 66".
Does this sound like too much powder? The fouling is not bad at all, but I clean between shots. The recoil is light, but the muzzle blast is impressive.
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the gun would tell you about its load.and patch . I have been lucky with getz and Griffith barrels in 45 and 50 cal they all shot better than me with 90 to 120 grains of swiss or goex.my 45 liked 90 the best grains and my 50 liked 110.i practiced with goex and shot the matches with swiss.we are talking slight differences between string of swiss and goex. when I was shooting thew- scores were so close powder did make that little bit of difference.all the top shooters shoot swiss . please post some of your practice target love seeing what people are shooting
dag
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I tend to agree with what Dag has posted. The first 48 caliber that I was familiar with was Medjeski's he shot as low as 80 grains of 3F, but I have seen them shot up in the 110 grain , with very good results, but has previously stated in Dag's post. You need the gun tell you what it wants to shoot
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How about 2f vs 3f in that size bore? I've heard some people say 2f is more consistent than 3f. Something to do with the larger grain size of the 2f screening out the same size, and the 3 f containing some fines that could give different burn rates.
I have several pounds of 2f, 3f, and 1 1/2f
Old Eynsford powder to try. I'll get some Swiss next time I order powder.
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Okawbow wrote:
How about 2f vs 3f in that size bore? I've heard some people say 2f is more consistent than 3f. Something to do with the larger grain size of the 2f screening out the same size, and the 3 f containing some fines that could give different burn rates.
I have several pounds of 2f, 3f, and 1 1/2f
Old Eynsford powder to try. I'll get some Swiss next time I order powder.
2F sometimes is better in a 50 or 45, so worth a try. Usually takes 5-10% by volume more of same brand 2f vs. 3f.
I had several pounds of Grafs 3f that was somewhat underpowered. Switching to goex 3f was a noticeable bump, and swiss & OE are hotter still. If you think the Grafs you have might be a little wimpy, remember to start lower with the other powders.
I've got to finish my 50 caliber barrel and find a good load for it soon!
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I tried the Old Eynesford today. Conditions were good, with not much wind.
The 3f never seemed to work for me. I tried several different loads, and always got a longer verticle string.
The 2f worked better, and went I got up to 110 grains, I got a 1 1/4" 7 shot group at 60 yards. I can't really see the target any better than that, so it's probably about as good as I can shoot with my current sights.
I'm using Patridge type sights and holding at the bottom of a 4" square. I just can't always tell when the sight is right at the bottom of the black square. I tried leaving a slight gap between the top of the front sight and the black square, and it seemed to help.
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Okawbow,
Since you are not trying to shoot bulls eyes, try holding the top of your front sight at the top of your sighter. You will be able to see when you are on the edge or above it. The only thing that will happen is your group will move.
Mark
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I'll try that. My eyes aren't that good anymore. I'm thinking about changing to a ball sight and use a round spotter.
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My eyes are also not too good. I'm currently working with the "Post and Dot" reticle in a Lyman 17 front sight and a round spotter. It works quite well once you get the size of the spotter worked out. At Mark's suggestion, I've found that for the 30 yd. Table Line...a round spotter just over 2 in. in diameter works real well.
For 60 yds. Chunk...it might take one just a little larger. I'm working on that now. I'm trying to "Frame" the dot in the sight inside the spotter, holding a uniform "halo" ring around the dot when I touch off the shot.
I also went out and picked up some different VERY bright colors of Poster board to test in varying light conditions. I'm curious to find out if one needs different color contrasts on bright sunny days, vs. heavily overcast/shady ones. Intuitively, I would think so...but sometimes my intuition isn't based on facts, just opinion. Perfect excuse to get out and SHOOT MORE...!!!!
Last edited by Don Steele (1/30/2016 5:15 AM)
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Don,
On bright days I use a tan background. On overcast days I like a blue background. Poster board colors work for the blue and I cut manila folders for the tan color.
Mark
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Thanks for the suggestions Mark. When you use those backgrounds...what color are you using for the circular center "Spot"..??
I've only used black for a background so far, with different colors for the spot in the middle.
UN-fortunately...I've only had bright sunny conditions to work with, and white on black works as good, or better than any other combinations.
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Sometimes out here in the Midwest we will start out bright sunshine and before long it's cloudy and then sometimes it's cloudy when you start and changes to bright sunshine. Then there are days when the sun is constantly popping in and out of clouds this is the hardest for me seems that my eyes never get adjusted to the condition before it changes and then the scores go down hill quick! For me a off white or maybe a light tan center against black larger circle seems to work best in all conditions most of the time. I don't like a real bright white as I get too much reflection off that when the sun is bright, a dark cloudy day though it works very well. I think that the only thing a guy can do is to experiment to see what works best for their eyes and conditions and then hope that it all stays the same. Good luck with that!
Richard
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Don,
I use a white inner spotter inside a black circle with either background. It allows the best, for me, definition of my front bead.
Mark
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Thanks Mark. I'm off to Staples again..!!
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