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Hi all,
I'm building a new chunk gun, and have a question about cant blocks.
I'm thinking of building the flat bottom of the cant block into the stock. I have about 2 1/4" width of wood to use on the fore stock, so I can incorporate a good block in place.
Now for my main question; are cant blocks allowed in most over the log shoots that allow 20# rifles? If not allowed, is it permissible to rest the stock behind the built- in block?
Chuck
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Chuck,
I'm not an authority on chunk guns but I've never been to a chunk match where cants were not allowed.
Mark
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Chuck
I have been to a lot of chunk gun shoots and have yet to find one that does not allow cant blocks. The only words of wisdom I might have about carving block directly into the stock would be on a brand-new set up, to see if you hit the sweet spot in the barrel.
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Thanks for the replys.
I've noticed on pictures of old rifles, that they sometimes had a wide spot built into the stock. I saw 1 that was about a foot long. I guess the sweet spot should fall somewhere in the foot long cant block area.
I'm also making a side slapper lock for this gun. It won't have a half cock position, but I am using a single action set trigger, which should act somewhat as a safe position for the lock, as it can't fire unless set. Of course, I'll never cap it anyway until the gun is set on the log and safely pointed down range.
Chuck
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Just as a suggestion, and as a range officer's it makes me feel a little more comfortable. It is pretty common for a lot of the mule ears, a.k.a. side slappers not to have a half cocked position. Have seen several people and do this myself take a spring-loaded laundry pin pull it open far enough to install the laundry pin to hold the hammer away from the nipple while cleaning it also makes a very positive safety.
And I would think you are correct that if you build a cant block on the stock a foot-long, you surely will hit the sweet spot. What kind of barrel or using or rather should I ask what are the dimensions of your barrel and can I presume that we will see progressive pictures from time to time as the build continues.
Good luck with your build
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Thanks for the laundry pin suggestion. I also thought about a sliding safety that blocks the hammer fall.
I'm using a Rayl 48 caliber barrel, 1 1/4" by 54" long. I bought it used, but the bore looks perfect. I had a huge walnut plank that had several knots, but managed to get a perfect stock plank by working around them. I'm making the fittings from iron, in a Tennessee style.
Hope to have it done and shooting well by the York shoot next spring.
Last edited by Okawbow (12/05/2015 6:59 PM)
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okawbow
In the April 1984 issue of Muzzle Blasts are two pictures of a Displaceable Side Hammer Lock made by
a Gary E. Karvonen the hammer moves back 1/2" from the nipple he said he had a patent on it.Went to Google
and found a patent drawing of it, patent US4468877A looks like you would need a milling machine to make it
check it out and see what you think of it.
Dick
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I've seen a picture of a lock someone recently made, that looks very similar. I'm sure it works well.
I'm going for a Samuel Morrison style lock. The mainspring will be mounted on the outside of the plate.
Chuck
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I hope we can see more pictures as the build continues. I like to see what progress looks like, it somehow makes the final product a little more interesting.
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More pictures of progress on the lock.
Side slapper3 by okawbow, on Flickr
Side slapper1 by okawbow, on Flickr
Side slapper2 by okawbow, on Flickr
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Wow! I'm loving these pictures Great! I sure hope that you continue with the pictures with this build. I recently started a side hammer rifle build myself but took the easy way out and bought a R&L lock.
RB
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Lot of filing yet to do on the hammer, but I can get it aligned to the nipple now, and start the lock inlet.
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Real good pictures Chuck keep them coming. I would like to see some of the other builders showcase their winter projects here.